kimono date

Went to zazen practice in the afternoon, and then hiroko and I went on a kimono date to Ginza.
It was bit cold, so we bundled up. Tried the ginzamusubi style of obi tying:
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And yes it is supposed to look kinda...droopy. hiroko was looking stylish as always, especially with her grandma's handmade silk coat.
First we headed to Mitsukoshi Department Store for the Okinawa Special Sale so that hiroko could buy her stinky tofu. We checked out all the local goods, including dragon fruit juice and mango juice
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and they even had a demonstration of traditional weaving:
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Afterwards we went over to Toyoda and had a fine feast. Hashimoto-san hooked us up the quality eats, and hiroko had some hirezake: warm sake with grilled pufferfish fin in it. Most of the alcohol is burnt off when pouring:
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All photos.

mita station


mita station, originally uploaded by renfield.

grandpa's grave stone


grandpa's grave stone, originally uploaded by renfield.

Grandpa Jerry's grave stone was unveiled last night. Papa took this photo for me. Seems nice enough; not really sure how one is supposed to comment one one's dead grandfather's grave stone unveiling.
Not really thrilled about the big blank space on the left just sort of awaiting grandma's impending death. Nice that at some point in the future they'll be together...but I'd prefer it to be far, FAR in the future.

Hakodate, Hokkaido

Took an express train for several hours down to the southern end of the little bit of Hokkaido that sticks out on the bottom near Aomori. Hakodate is a wee fishing village with some interesting history in that it was a major port and has some of the first foreign buildings like the British Embassy Office and various churches. Again lots of cool late 19th and early 20th century architecture, a cool blend of Western, Japanese, and both.
Also rode about on the trolley, ate some killer seafood, and saw stunningly significant historical landmarks.

sapporo, hokkaido

Took the train from Otaru to Sapporo, grabbed some ramen for lunch, walked a couple blocks downtown and checked into the lovely Okura Hotel. Spending just one night in Sapporo, so we only had two missions:
1) Eat "Ghengis Khan"
2) See the holidy illuminations
Mission Accomplished!
Ah, the taste of fresh lamb cooked over real charcoal in a smoke-filled closet!
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Ooh the glitter of lights and holiday cheer!
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otaru, hokkaido day two

After a massive breakfast we shuttled down to the train and rode a couple stops to Otaru City proper. First we bussed down to the former villa of the Aoyama family, barons of herring fishing from the turn of the century. Lucky for me I am unable to read the Japanese signs that say "No photography", so I took lots of photos.
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Herring fishing was obviously good for the Aoyama clan, because they spent a fortune on this house and the details are stunning, from the ceiling beams made of a single piece of timber (no more trees long enough to make such a thing anymore) to the staircase made of rare wood and put together without nails, the sinks carved out of a single block of marble, and the family heirlooms formerly owned by the Shogun.
We bussed back into town and wandered around the historical section, full of old brick warehouses and glass shops. There are also many brick buildings built at the turn of the century, including the old Bank of Japan branch and former post office.
Getting hungry we stumbled through the backstreets until we found Naruto, Otaru's famous fried chicken.

otaru, hokkaido day one

Landed in New Chitose Airport near Sapporo and hopped on the express train up to Otaru, a wee hot spring resort kind of town on the north/western side of the little southern bit of Hokkaido that sticks out below the big mass of Hokkaido to the north.
Van picked us up and took us to Kuramure. Wow. Awesome blend of modern/traditional Japanese architecture that Hiroko and I do so love. The building looks like a collection of old warehouses, and each room is it's own building; a full suite with bedroom, main room, second room, and a stone bath with hotspring water. There is also a main indoor and outdoor bath for men and for women, awesome common areas including a cool lounge, library with all kinds of old books, and a tea room. Meals were taken in the dining room, in our own private room. The food was, of course, stupendous.
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Oh yeah, and ALL drinks, anywhere in the place, at any time, are included in the bill. Too bad Hiroko and I don't drink professionally, but she got to taste some lovely sake and I discovered that sweet white wine gives me a thumping headache and an allergic reaction after the forth glass.
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pre-flight boot polish


pre-flight boot polish, originally uploaded by renfield.

kuroda family


kuroda family, originally uploaded by renfield.

KSchan


KSchan, originally uploaded by renfield.

suimoken


suimoken, originally uploaded by renfield.

Friday evening Gosoke sends me an email: "Cutting in the dojo 8pm Sat for tv crew." Huh? Seems the TV show Adomachikku Tengoku was shooting for an episode of the Nihonbashi Muromachi area where our Honbu Dojo is, and they wanted to get some shots of that gaijin doing that sword thing. I soaked a couple of targets and headed to the dojo. TV crew arrived and we explained the place so the director goes "OK start w/a zoom, and when he goes to cut, pull out and get the whole thing" and I tell him "Dude, that's impossible." He kind of looks at me funny and the cameraman goes "It's ok, I'm a pro." I look at him for a moment and realize he doesn't have the faintest clue what's about to happen, so I tell him "When I put my hand on my sword, the cut is over about three-tenths of a second later."
This doesn't seem to register so the director just says "Let's try it once" and so I sit down, he says "Go!" and I cut. The cameraman lowers his camera and stares at me. The lighting girl turns off the light and stares at me. The director stares at me. The dude with all the rolls of duct tape stares at me. Gosoke is off to the side and just laughs and laughs and finally says "A bit faster than you expected?" So the director says "OK...can we try it one more time?"
I end up cutting about five times, and then Hashimoto-san from Toyoda cuts a couple times (though not from the draw) and then the try to take digital photos. Again I remind him that unless he's got rapid-fire on his camera, there's no way he's going to get it. We spend the next ten minutes trying to take a photo of Hashimoto-san just as he's cut the target, and finally get a usable photo.
After the shoot I headed down to Toyoda where Hashimoto-san hooked us up with a fine bottle of Suimoken and some quality eats and we laughed about the shoot and wondered when and how much we'll be on tv.

garden gnome dogs?!


garden gnome dogs?!, originally uploaded by renfield.

dooood! new powerbook!


dooood! new powerbook!, originally uploaded by renfield.

home cookin'

Synth came over for his first home cooked meal in a while. Hiroko whipped up rice, fish, veggies; your basic Japanese food, warm and delicious.
We sat on the warm electric carpet and ate and went through a wee bit of one of Hiroko's sake bottles and spent a couple of hours talking smack and life.
I keep trying to get Synth to write a blog, because his life is marginally interesting and he does marginally interesting things like teach at Todai and hang out with The Man and what not. But being a fiction writer already I guess he can't scrape together the effort to actually write a marginally interesting blog. He's too busy figuring out how to end up in a bungalo in Venice Beach, CA.

click-clack

Only four in class today, and it's getting chilly, so we ran through some warmups and basics and then broke out the sticks. Nothing better than the clickety-clack of wood swords echoing in the dojo night.
First we paired up and worked on some basics: draw and cut, step in and finish. With a partner holding a target and moving backwards, it's much easier to get the feel of extending out, reaching out, not up or down, with the cuts.
Then we did ren, with one person in front and one standing behind. The key is again to extend forwards and then turn and extend forwards again, moving deeply into the enemy's space, taking control and connecting.
I admit to showing off and having a bit of fun. First I did "heavy" cuts; S-chan was standing behind me, her sword held horizontally to receive my second cut, and when I turned and cut I just sank into it, pushing her down into the floor. She kinda freaked a bit wondering how I did it. To be honest I'm not really sure how it works. I'm not actively trying to push down or anything, I just kind of thing "heavy" and then sort of sink through her in more of a downwardly way, but the trajectory of my sword isn't necessarily going down because I'm still extending the distance to reach her.
Then the next time around I cut way WAY out and knock her staggering back a couple meters. Again I'm not actively pushing her, but I'm just trying to cut forwards through her, with less of an impact and more of a continuous drive. It's all in moving from the center, though I'm not entirely able to explain it nor teach it, just something that kind of happens sometimes and that I can do on occasion on purpose. But it sure is fun.
After practice I ate a handful of frosted animal cookies. Nectar. Of. The. Gods. The Senpokan posse brings them for Niina-gosoke, so they pile up in the dojo, assaulting my self-control and my BMI. But so So SO good.

volcom in warp

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The Volcom crew is in the Dec '05 issue of WARP.

dinner!


dinner!, originally uploaded by renfield.

Traditional Sunday evening dinner. Hiroko cooked, madly. And we ate, madly. She is quite honestly the second-best cook ever. (Number One is, in fact, mama. And if you think I'm biased, you've obviously never had dinner at her house!)
The yellow and green is chrysanthemum petals and spinach, sauteed. Damn fine.

packrat house


packrat house, originally uploaded by renfield.

Down the street from the train station is this house. It is, literally, full of junk. So full it is spilling out the windows. Every now and then I see an old man wandering around the piles, moving things around, perhaps adding a bit or bob here and there. Kinda redefines compulsive, eh?

akiba


akiba, originally uploaded by renfield.

Took Synth on the patented Akihabara Tour; started with electronics parts and ended with B-level idols singing in front of the train station and a Doner Kebab sandwich. He's doing research for latest super-top-secret book, and checking out the fan models of super robots in Akihabara was critical to that. No, really.

big cuttin'

Huge cutting seminar today! BigTony and Mucho de Lucho didn't have to go to Machida until the evening, so we piled all the gear into a cab and headed to Honbu. 17 people showed up for cutting, so it was a bit tight and most folks only got a couple of targets, but it was worth it.
Tony cut a big 5-roll to start, and then he ran the advanced folks through 6dan-giri as I worked with the newbies on basic cuts. As always, the women cut better because they don't try to muscle through the target.
I put Yasutoshi through his paces, and he came out shining. Cuts smooth and mean, and probably wont bend unless I do something really, really stupid.

vato tacos


IMG_0785.JPG, originally uploaded by renfield.

It was a Mexican Invasion. BigTony and Mucho de Lucho Arroyo took over the kitchen threw down barrio-style. The chipotles was hot and the salsa was cool; never a finer meal was had this side of the border.

bust a move, you must

Yoda gettin' jiggy wid it.

big class, taiyaki

Showed up late for class and was greeted by a fresh, warm stack of taiyaki. So I ate two. Ah, the sweet red bean goodness of warm pastries.
Ten in class tonight, so it was pretty tight. And cool, so no fear of overheating, which is why practicing in the fall is so enjoyable.
Ran through the basics, worked on some fine points, and then did a couple of kata, smacking each other with bokken to work on distance and timing. It's hard to do some kata without an opponent to focus on. The whole point of solo work in iai is to struggle against the opponent of self inside, but realistically it's hard to nail the mechanics without understanding the interaction of your and your enemy's movements. The thing I like about Mugairyu is all the kata are doable. Kata are NOT an attempt to codify "realistic" fighting scenarios, as so many armchair ninja believe. And neither are punching patterns on a heavy bag, but boxers still find them useful for developing skills. Instead the kata spell out a small exchange, given many assumptions and many other variables. By working through the kata at different levels, like the layers of an onion, you can ultimately come to an understanding of what Mugairyu is; the essence that makes it not Shintoryu, nor Sekiguchiryu, nor Kashimaryu.
The kata are an abstraction; they happen in a world where your imaginary opponent is your exact twin. (I always say to imagine that he is exactly like you, only he's one day better.) You also know what he is going to do, as the kata itself is your reaction to him. He comes in high, you wait and counter low. He parries, you dodge, he retreats, you follow and finish. On a physical level the kata teach basic "muscle memory"; your body learns how to do certain necessary moves without conscious thought. More subtly, the kata teach the defining strategy of the ryu. Understanding starts simplistically, like "in most cases, Mugairyu will counter a high attack with a rising diagonal cut." Advanced practice changes some variables and assumptions, the most obvious being that the enemy is no longer a beginner. Slow moves are done more quickly, fast moves are executed more slowly and carefully. Distance is changed, timing becomes less rhythmic. Ultimately you come to internalize the theory and strategy of the ryu; the way you see the world and how you react to it. Gosoke demonstrates this by saying that there is only one Mugairyu kata. And then he starts one kata, transitions into another, finishes with a third. A retreat becomes an attack, a sidestep becomes a counter, a parry becomes a preemptive attack. And yet it is all, truly and distinctly, Mugairyu.
After class we had a little target rolling party; cutting on Saturday!

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ted earns room and board


ted earns room and board, originally uploaded by renfield.

ted eating oden


ted eating oden, originally uploaded by renfield.

jen


jen, originally uploaded by renfield.

This is what happens when she's sober.

ouchie


ouchie, originally uploaded by renfield.

The good news, Yasutoshi cuts REALLY well. Great balance, even though it's a whopping 1200 grams (my previous blades are 900 and 950). Don't notice the weight so much, but I did mess up on the placement of the menuki, and after 2 hours of practice, I busted this lovely blister.
So, back to the shop it goes for some minor adjustment. The quest for perfection is a long and arduous road...

yasutoshi


IMG_0773.JPG, originally uploaded by renfield.

Hot damn. New blade. Must. Cut.

chicken dinner


chicken dinner, originally uploaded by renfield.

Ted and Hiroko enjoying a wee drop of sake.

@ hataya's


@ hataya's, originally uploaded by renfield.

Spent the afternoon hanging out at Hataya's shop, looking at stuff with Ted and Roger. Picked up my new cutter and looked at some cool daruma fittings. Ted got some nice horse menuki and Roger ogled the dragons. Hataya-sensei showed up a couple hours later and, being Hataya-sensei, told me that he forgot to pick up the registration for my sword. Then again, being The Man, he wrote on one of his business cards "I'm still getting the registration for this" and we stuck it on the sword. Any cop who sees that will know not to mess.

kure deri*

Boss MacDaddy had a free pass from the wife, so he decided it was time for some Team Bonding. The troops gathered at Hanezawa Garden for some semi-outdoor seating surrounded by kerosene heaters and we did damage to the pork and veggie cauldrons before heading over to Muse for continued revelry. After getting my ass trounced by Fish at darts (twice) I strolled to the bar and drank OJ with blatant irreverance as the converts traders continued on with what started out as none-too-politically-correct discussions of the many ways a man and his yen may revel in debauchery in the back streets of Tokyo.
Got home at a reasonable 1:30am, though I was first to slide away and I expect unending amounts of ribbing when I go back to work.

* kure deri is an abbreviation for "credit derivatives".

relax

Big turnout for class tonight. I thought maybe it was a testament to my amazing teaching ability and charisma, but it turns out that most of the regular Tuesday classes are cancelled because in November and December it's hard to use the various school gyms as they are taken for end-of-year school festivities.
So with ten people on the floor we took our time; slow warmups and basics for over an hour, and then some simple kata work.
Theme for tonight started with the knees and how much they need to bend in order to keep the hips level and centered. As the practice progressed we sort of wandered about touching up minor points, and I had one of the minor epiphanies that doesn't really help but makes it much more fun to keep trying: relax when you draw. Totally and completely obvious of course, but when I do the one out of ten thousand just-right draw I am always totally mellow, almost not even caring. I'm not thinking about it, I'm not looking at my sword or my feet or anything in particular; just looking ahead and at the moment I need to draw, the sword is silently and smoothly out, without over cutting and with no exaggeration. Feels good, and so I'm trying to actively pursue that practical nonchalant-ness so that I can summon it at will. Non-trivial unfortunately.
On a specific note, I am working on keeping my left arm closer to my body; not flaring the left elbow and rotating the left hand to turn the sword over as I draw, but more of a corkscrew kind of twist so that the position of the hand (in X and Z space) doesn't change (only moving along Y; front to back.) This keeps the koiguchi more pointed at the point of impact, and tends to keep my from chunking the cut; comes out more smoothly and directly. Also stops me from opening too widely to my left, exposing my right arm to removal by an astute enemy.

After I got home, Ted was crushed and went to sleep, and then Jen showed up fresh from her tour in Kyoto so the Kuroda Hotel was in full swing. Jen takes off for Gunma and more research but she'll be back this weekend.

millie's big hat halloween


DSCF0007, originally uploaded by kenkayomillie.

I just love this photo.

and a good time was had by all.


IMG_0716.JPG, originally uploaded by renfield.

The 8th annual Suimokai Festival "Kenkakubanrai" was enjoyed greatly. Elvis and I did kumitachi, and I also did some cutting (with only minor screwing up) and finally when it was all over I did Part One of my 6dan test. Part Two has been set for December 1, so I guess that means I passed.
The Ladies made it to the finals in the team competition and despite my best efforts to fail them, they proceeded to victory.
Finally, in the Entertainment Division, Hoshina-san and her crazies from Akihabara did some rousing dancing and won themselves a couple hundred kilos of rice, plus cheap suitecases in which to carry it home. I laughed, I cried, it became a part of me.

big class

Dunno what happened, but a whole lotta folks showed up for class tonight. Started with six, then Elvis showed up late, then a couple more until we finally had about ten on the floor. Ten is pretty tight and you have to be careful not to kill each other, but we managed. Nice cool evening so training hard feels good. Ripped through alot of basic cuts in the beginning, just focusing on blade angle and path, and then added in body mechanics, concentrating on what muscles are really doing the work. It's wierd to think how you can move your body without actually realizing what and how you're moving. For some reason we get lazy and move in really inefficient ways because we think it's easier or something. Hard to retrain the body to move the 'right' way; but it's cool to see that lightbulb go off when someone (usually accidentally) does it right the 100th time, realizes it, and then tries another 100 times to get the feeling back.
I think advancing to higher levels in martial arts just involves increasing the probability of doing something right.

kimono tansu


kimono tansu, originally uploaded by renfield.

Commissioned the lovely folks at Suruga Isho to make a set of drawered chests in a modern /traditional style for hiroko's kimono collection.
They are quite lovely, with traditional kiri (paulownia) inside the drawers, a beautiful dark finish on the front and a more natural yellow finish on the top and sides.

akiba soul!


NEC_0271.jpg, originally uploaded by renfield.

ishihara family


ishihara family, originally uploaded by renfield.

Went to the dojo in the afternoon to work on kumitachi with Elvis in prep for our demo next week. He went to the aikido class at night so I stayed in the dojo by myself and did some cutting. Was fairly mediocre, so I've got lots of work to do before next week, and not much time to do it in.
Left the dojo, walked around the corner, and as I passed Starbucks I spied Millie asleep in her stroller, mom and dad Ishihara drinking coffee at her side. Haven't seem them in a while so I pulled up a chair and ate biscuits with Millie after she woke up. She didn't remember me, was groggy from just waking up, and generally doesn't like guys. So she stared at me. The. Whole. Time.
I also linked to both mom and dad's blogs, so if you're in a Japanese reading mood, check them out.

millie ishihara


millie ishihara, originally uploaded by renfield.

Much cuter when she's asleep!

sushi!


sushi!, originally uploaded by renfield.

After work met up with Jen and Hiroko and Roland for some quality seafood and smacktalk. Roland is my hero, not just because he's now teaching at Tokyo University, but because he's buddy-buddy with my man Haruki Murakami.
We discussed the many ways Roland could work with Jen, and decided it would be best if we got a write-up of Jen's Japan Food Tour in the NYTimes travel section.

drunk jen & ramen


drunk jen & ramen, originally uploaded by renfield.

Hiroko too the day off to be productive, which apparently involved going to a sake-tasting party with Jenn and sampling several domestic bevvies from Japan's finest distilleries. She and Jen were right glowing by the time we met for dinner, which consisted of Ayu Ramen. Ah, the magic that is Ayu Ramen. And to top it all off, we got 5 chances at the lottery in the shopping mall housing the restaurant, and I won 500 yen twice!

robin in the hood

Robin came in from Cali last week and we had a right proper Tokyo Good Time.
We trained at Honbu on Tuesday and then went out to all-you-can-eat sukiyaki with Niina-gosoke and the crew. We tried to go to the all-you-can-eat place we usually go to, but it's out of business. We killed it!
On Wednesday I had to work late so Robin spent all day at Honbu working with Gosoke -- eight hours straight!
On Thursday Robin went down to Machida to do Toyama-ryu with Hataya-sensei.
On Friday there was no class so Robin went to the sword museum and Aoi Art and Namikawa Heibei, and then we had dinner at Lucky down the street.
Saturday we had a killer cutting practice with 15 people at Honbu -- took some good vids so those will be posted in due time.
After cutting and then cleaning the dojo top to bottom we headed down to Ninjin for some mad greasy Chinese food and then checked out the massive Yodobashi Camera at Akihabara. We looked at a mile of MP3 players and almost killed the guy who's job it was to sit on a ladder and shout with a megaphone about the special sale prices. Elvis upgraded his cell phone and we tried to get some coffee at the maid cafe but it was packed and they didn't allow photos anyway, so what's the point?
Coming back to the station we ran into Niina-gosoke on his was home. He couldn't believe we were still out shopping.
And finally on Sunday we took Robin down to the ANA Hotel, did some last minute gift shopping, ate a final rotator sushi lunch, and got him on the airport limousine bus.
Hiroko went shopping and I biked over to Honbu and did kumitachi with Elvis for a bit in prep for our demo in a couple weeks.