otaru, hokkaido day two

After a massive breakfast we shuttled down to the train and rode a couple stops to Otaru City proper. First we bussed down to the former villa of the Aoyama family, barons of herring fishing from the turn of the century. Lucky for me I am unable to read the Japanese signs that say "No photography", so I took lots of photos.
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Herring fishing was obviously good for the Aoyama clan, because they spent a fortune on this house and the details are stunning, from the ceiling beams made of a single piece of timber (no more trees long enough to make such a thing anymore) to the staircase made of rare wood and put together without nails, the sinks carved out of a single block of marble, and the family heirlooms formerly owned by the Shogun.
We bussed back into town and wandered around the historical section, full of old brick warehouses and glass shops. There are also many brick buildings built at the turn of the century, including the old Bank of Japan branch and former post office.
Getting hungry we stumbled through the backstreets until we found Naruto, Otaru's famous fried chicken.

otaru, hokkaido day one

Landed in New Chitose Airport near Sapporo and hopped on the express train up to Otaru, a wee hot spring resort kind of town on the north/western side of the little southern bit of Hokkaido that sticks out below the big mass of Hokkaido to the north.
Van picked us up and took us to Kuramure. Wow. Awesome blend of modern/traditional Japanese architecture that Hiroko and I do so love. The building looks like a collection of old warehouses, and each room is it's own building; a full suite with bedroom, main room, second room, and a stone bath with hotspring water. There is also a main indoor and outdoor bath for men and for women, awesome common areas including a cool lounge, library with all kinds of old books, and a tea room. Meals were taken in the dining room, in our own private room. The food was, of course, stupendous.
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Oh yeah, and ALL drinks, anywhere in the place, at any time, are included in the bill. Too bad Hiroko and I don't drink professionally, but she got to taste some lovely sake and I discovered that sweet white wine gives me a thumping headache and an allergic reaction after the forth glass.
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pre-flight boot polish


pre-flight boot polish, originally uploaded by renfield.

kuroda family


kuroda family, originally uploaded by renfield.

KSchan


KSchan, originally uploaded by renfield.

suimoken


suimoken, originally uploaded by renfield.

Friday evening Gosoke sends me an email: "Cutting in the dojo 8pm Sat for tv crew." Huh? Seems the TV show Adomachikku Tengoku was shooting for an episode of the Nihonbashi Muromachi area where our Honbu Dojo is, and they wanted to get some shots of that gaijin doing that sword thing. I soaked a couple of targets and headed to the dojo. TV crew arrived and we explained the place so the director goes "OK start w/a zoom, and when he goes to cut, pull out and get the whole thing" and I tell him "Dude, that's impossible." He kind of looks at me funny and the cameraman goes "It's ok, I'm a pro." I look at him for a moment and realize he doesn't have the faintest clue what's about to happen, so I tell him "When I put my hand on my sword, the cut is over about three-tenths of a second later."
This doesn't seem to register so the director just says "Let's try it once" and so I sit down, he says "Go!" and I cut. The cameraman lowers his camera and stares at me. The lighting girl turns off the light and stares at me. The director stares at me. The dude with all the rolls of duct tape stares at me. Gosoke is off to the side and just laughs and laughs and finally says "A bit faster than you expected?" So the director says "OK...can we try it one more time?"
I end up cutting about five times, and then Hashimoto-san from Toyoda cuts a couple times (though not from the draw) and then the try to take digital photos. Again I remind him that unless he's got rapid-fire on his camera, there's no way he's going to get it. We spend the next ten minutes trying to take a photo of Hashimoto-san just as he's cut the target, and finally get a usable photo.
After the shoot I headed down to Toyoda where Hashimoto-san hooked us up with a fine bottle of Suimoken and some quality eats and we laughed about the shoot and wondered when and how much we'll be on tv.

garden gnome dogs?!


garden gnome dogs?!, originally uploaded by renfield.

dooood! new powerbook!


dooood! new powerbook!, originally uploaded by renfield.

home cookin'

Synth came over for his first home cooked meal in a while. Hiroko whipped up rice, fish, veggies; your basic Japanese food, warm and delicious.
We sat on the warm electric carpet and ate and went through a wee bit of one of Hiroko's sake bottles and spent a couple of hours talking smack and life.
I keep trying to get Synth to write a blog, because his life is marginally interesting and he does marginally interesting things like teach at Todai and hang out with The Man and what not. But being a fiction writer already I guess he can't scrape together the effort to actually write a marginally interesting blog. He's too busy figuring out how to end up in a bungalo in Venice Beach, CA.

click-clack

Only four in class today, and it's getting chilly, so we ran through some warmups and basics and then broke out the sticks. Nothing better than the clickety-clack of wood swords echoing in the dojo night.
First we paired up and worked on some basics: draw and cut, step in and finish. With a partner holding a target and moving backwards, it's much easier to get the feel of extending out, reaching out, not up or down, with the cuts.
Then we did ren, with one person in front and one standing behind. The key is again to extend forwards and then turn and extend forwards again, moving deeply into the enemy's space, taking control and connecting.
I admit to showing off and having a bit of fun. First I did "heavy" cuts; S-chan was standing behind me, her sword held horizontally to receive my second cut, and when I turned and cut I just sank into it, pushing her down into the floor. She kinda freaked a bit wondering how I did it. To be honest I'm not really sure how it works. I'm not actively trying to push down or anything, I just kind of thing "heavy" and then sort of sink through her in more of a downwardly way, but the trajectory of my sword isn't necessarily going down because I'm still extending the distance to reach her.
Then the next time around I cut way WAY out and knock her staggering back a couple meters. Again I'm not actively pushing her, but I'm just trying to cut forwards through her, with less of an impact and more of a continuous drive. It's all in moving from the center, though I'm not entirely able to explain it nor teach it, just something that kind of happens sometimes and that I can do on occasion on purpose. But it sure is fun.
After practice I ate a handful of frosted animal cookies. Nectar. Of. The. Gods. The Senpokan posse brings them for Niina-gosoke, so they pile up in the dojo, assaulting my self-control and my BMI. But so So SO good.

volcom in warp

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The Volcom crew is in the Dec '05 issue of WARP.

dinner!


dinner!, originally uploaded by renfield.

Traditional Sunday evening dinner. Hiroko cooked, madly. And we ate, madly. She is quite honestly the second-best cook ever. (Number One is, in fact, mama. And if you think I'm biased, you've obviously never had dinner at her house!)
The yellow and green is chrysanthemum petals and spinach, sauteed. Damn fine.

packrat house


packrat house, originally uploaded by renfield.

Down the street from the train station is this house. It is, literally, full of junk. So full it is spilling out the windows. Every now and then I see an old man wandering around the piles, moving things around, perhaps adding a bit or bob here and there. Kinda redefines compulsive, eh?

akiba


akiba, originally uploaded by renfield.

Took Synth on the patented Akihabara Tour; started with electronics parts and ended with B-level idols singing in front of the train station and a Doner Kebab sandwich. He's doing research for latest super-top-secret book, and checking out the fan models of super robots in Akihabara was critical to that. No, really.

big cuttin'

Huge cutting seminar today! BigTony and Mucho de Lucho didn't have to go to Machida until the evening, so we piled all the gear into a cab and headed to Honbu. 17 people showed up for cutting, so it was a bit tight and most folks only got a couple of targets, but it was worth it.
Tony cut a big 5-roll to start, and then he ran the advanced folks through 6dan-giri as I worked with the newbies on basic cuts. As always, the women cut better because they don't try to muscle through the target.
I put Yasutoshi through his paces, and he came out shining. Cuts smooth and mean, and probably wont bend unless I do something really, really stupid.

vato tacos


IMG_0785.JPG, originally uploaded by renfield.

It was a Mexican Invasion. BigTony and Mucho de Lucho Arroyo took over the kitchen threw down barrio-style. The chipotles was hot and the salsa was cool; never a finer meal was had this side of the border.

bust a move, you must

Yoda gettin' jiggy wid it.

big class, taiyaki

Showed up late for class and was greeted by a fresh, warm stack of taiyaki. So I ate two. Ah, the sweet red bean goodness of warm pastries.
Ten in class tonight, so it was pretty tight. And cool, so no fear of overheating, which is why practicing in the fall is so enjoyable.
Ran through the basics, worked on some fine points, and then did a couple of kata, smacking each other with bokken to work on distance and timing. It's hard to do some kata without an opponent to focus on. The whole point of solo work in iai is to struggle against the opponent of self inside, but realistically it's hard to nail the mechanics without understanding the interaction of your and your enemy's movements. The thing I like about Mugairyu is all the kata are doable. Kata are NOT an attempt to codify "realistic" fighting scenarios, as so many armchair ninja believe. And neither are punching patterns on a heavy bag, but boxers still find them useful for developing skills. Instead the kata spell out a small exchange, given many assumptions and many other variables. By working through the kata at different levels, like the layers of an onion, you can ultimately come to an understanding of what Mugairyu is; the essence that makes it not Shintoryu, nor Sekiguchiryu, nor Kashimaryu.
The kata are an abstraction; they happen in a world where your imaginary opponent is your exact twin. (I always say to imagine that he is exactly like you, only he's one day better.) You also know what he is going to do, as the kata itself is your reaction to him. He comes in high, you wait and counter low. He parries, you dodge, he retreats, you follow and finish. On a physical level the kata teach basic "muscle memory"; your body learns how to do certain necessary moves without conscious thought. More subtly, the kata teach the defining strategy of the ryu. Understanding starts simplistically, like "in most cases, Mugairyu will counter a high attack with a rising diagonal cut." Advanced practice changes some variables and assumptions, the most obvious being that the enemy is no longer a beginner. Slow moves are done more quickly, fast moves are executed more slowly and carefully. Distance is changed, timing becomes less rhythmic. Ultimately you come to internalize the theory and strategy of the ryu; the way you see the world and how you react to it. Gosoke demonstrates this by saying that there is only one Mugairyu kata. And then he starts one kata, transitions into another, finishes with a third. A retreat becomes an attack, a sidestep becomes a counter, a parry becomes a preemptive attack. And yet it is all, truly and distinctly, Mugairyu.
After class we had a little target rolling party; cutting on Saturday!

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ted earns room and board


ted earns room and board, originally uploaded by renfield.